“In the restaurant, you feel like it’s a fight when you walk in the door. You’re fighting the purveyors, you’re fighting during prep, you’re fighting to be perfect in an imperfect system. Then service is a battle. There’s a lot of yelling and screaming. Whether it was me or someone else, I always talked to people after to make it good. It takes so many people to put on that show, and everyone’s important: the dishwasher, the coffee guy, the bread guy. I tried to make myself available to them, but it just got too crazy, to be between my family, my staff, the menu, the ordering… In life, all these things are tradeoffs. I do miss sometimes the energy of the city. Cooking is performance, and I enjoy the aspect of creating for people, especially when other chefs, critics, real foodies are coming through. I love feeding people.”


Kathleen MeilComment